Sunday, September 30, 2007

The park on the hill


After my tour and a nap I ventured North out of the city, a direction I hadn't taken yet. I crossed a bridge and started to head up a hill on a path leading into a sprawing park. At the top I came to a huge sculpture of a metronome. On a previous tour, my friend Tomas pointed it out (it can be seen from the city center) and told me that it was placed on the spot where Stalin's statue used to stand. The whole area around the metronome stinks of communism. The granite stairs that lead up to the old statue site, a huge stone lookout over the city with two massive copper bowls on either side (to be filled with fire, I imagine) and everything covered in grafitti. Behind the metronome is a concrete park with many levels, stairs and walls, a skateboarder's heaven, and well-populated. I sat for about an hour and watched them, with my back to the spectacular view of the city, such were the talents of the skaters. Some of them were really young, like 9 or 10 it seemed, and were popping up onto walls 3 feet high without breaking speed. The older kids were doing stuff that is still a mystery to me. The board seemed to spin in all possible directions for a blurry second before the kid would land on it and glide away on the edge of a iron rail, all with the nonchalance of someone out for a stroll.
The park has the best views of the city I've seen so far. There were lots of families out, joggers and kids playing soccer. It smelled like Fall, both a comforting smell and a nostalgic one, and I walked around till the sun was almost gone.

Tomas

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Cathedrals, bombs and princesses


Yesterday my friend Tomas (pronounced Tomash) took me on a tour of Prague Castle. He is a professional tour guide and this is the third tour he's given me. The first two lasted an hour each, but yesterday we were out for about 3 or 4. He enjoys it because it's his hobby, and also because he's trying to practice giving tours in English. His pronunciation needs a lot of work, but he usually knows all the right words. When he doesn't we go through all kinds of unlikely and circuitous routes to come up with them, which is a fun little game. While we were waiting in line to get in he told me and my friend Hunter an interesting story about a time when he'd been in the main cathedral some years back. Apparently a woman ran in, pursued by two large men, and literally nudged Tomas out of the way on her sprint down the main aisle, where she dropped on her knees and began to pray. Tomas thought she was a pickpocket, but as the men led her out of the cathedral, some tourists saw her and ran over to talk to her. Afterwards, Tomas asked the people who she was. Princess Diana, and the men were her bodyguards, trying to keep her on schedule.
We didn't see any famous people yesterday, but the cathedral was fascinating, illuminated by knowledgable light that Tomas was able to shed on it's various wonders. There was a missing chunk from a marble stair where a crude bomb had landed a few hundred years ago. When it went off, all the windows in the cathedral (about 50 huge stained-glass ones) all shattered. Thus all the windows there today are from the 20th century. One was done by Alfonso Mucha, and it's really beautiful.
The statue-fountain is of St. George and the dragon, one of my favorite characters. The square is named after him as well as a convent right next to the main cathedral.

Friday



This is us meeting up in the main square after school on Friday. The guy with the hat and his back to the camera is one of my roommates, and the other two are on the right. Fil's laughing and wearing a baseball hat and Maurice is the guy with darker skin.

Pub the first.


For three consecutive Fridays we've gone out as a class and let our collective hair down a bit. This was the first place we went to, but we didn't stay too long as the owner kept telling us to quiet down. Some of us made it to the next place and then called it a night, others (my roommates) hit a few more pubs before coming back at sunrise.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Fallen Angel







On Sunday I walked around for about 5 hours and found some really cool stuff, namely a huge park and a crazy memorial that had lots of statues on and around it. At the base of the pillar was this angel. Like the other figures, she was slightly larger than an average human and sort of elongated stylistically. There was bird crap and feathers all stuck to her, which made it sadder and more powerful. I did a small drawing and took some pictures and made a mental note of where it was so I could go back, especially after the first snowfall.

Besides her and the park I saw many gorgeous buildings and interesting people. I got a larger size sketch book and did some drawings of the city from a grassy hillside, which I'll post soon.

I don't know why these images posted twice, but I don't feel like going back and changing it. If anyone reads this and knows why this happens, let me know.

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Captain's Log, Stardate 1

Well it took me a few weeks but here it is. I know, I really thought it was going to be...awesomer. The blog, that is, not Prague. No, this city couldn't be any awesomer if was made of milk chocolate. Or even white chocolate with a milk chocolate river. A reeses peanut-butter city with a whiskey river...maybe.

Anyways. (But what if the lamp posts were candy-canes and the bridges were chocolate-covered pretzels, cause, you know, the pretzels would kind of be like the girders? That would be amazing!)

Right. Everything here has been going really well, with the exception of a brief bout of mild food poisoning, which came on the heels of a mild hangover. That was my first real weekend here. I still managed to get out and look around and even go see the Mucha exhibit which is about 3 minutes from my house, and more importantly, 3 minutes from my bathroom. The artwork was really fantastic and seeing it, along with a lot of other pieces in nearby galleries, has me aching to start painting again. I have nearly filled up a small sketchbook with pen and graphite drawings, some of which I will post soon. I enjoy doing them immensely, but I just can't 'say' all that I wish to in such a small and limited medium. This city is looming and soaring. The streets cut narrow slashes in centuries-old stone. The sides of buildings seem to have their own light source, the ornate carvings almost twist and move with life. The statues assert themselves into the air above the streets where they idly hold up massive archways and balconies, or just keep watch over the city.

Most of my time is spent in class or preparing for it. The two instructors really pack a lot of work into a day, and we are already into our 4th student teaching lesson, which take a lot preparation. If they only take a little preparation, as I found out today, they can leave one nearly hyperventilating with anxiety in front of a class. Luckily, my spiritual gift is b.s.ing so I was able to make it work, but this had an interesting effect on me. Rather than self back-pats and the usual smugness, I vowed to work extra hard for tomorrow's lesson and really nail it, which had been my attitude up until one of my roommates had a birthday and we stayed out a little too late. I guess this is what a lot of people would have learned when they were spending heaps of money on a college education. Whatever, I'm just happy to finally be applying myself in the classroom.

But Prague really is incredible. The locals I do come into contact with are usually really nice and helpful. (About 99% of the people around the square are tourists. I've had more conversations in Spanish than in Czech.) I've had one authentic Czech meal and it was fantastic. Yes, the beer is more delicious than the waters of Lebanon, yea, even more than the sweet springs that floweth down from Mt. Hezebekiah. And cheap! At the grocery store (wake up Massachussetts, beer is, in fact, a grocery) a really good beer goes for about 35 cents, and they're about a third bigger than the ones in the states. (I need to quickly interject here that, for anyone wondering, I drink way less beer here than back home. I think the sense of purpose is causing me to cut out unneccesary drinking. I drink a lot of tea, eat a lot fresh baked bread, and do my homework. Unless it's someone's birthday. What am I, superhuman?) But the Czech meal was great. For starters I had garlic soup. This stuff was nearly radioactive - it was glowing and humming when they set it in front of me. Upon finishing it off, (I picked my bowl up and drank the broth like a good glutton will.) I momentarily achieved enlightenment, caught a glimpse of the end of the world and was made out of pure energy. Then I took a huge gulp of beer and was corporeal again, in the present, and the same old glutton. The main course was (drumroll) beer! Just kidding, it was goulash and dumplings. The dumplings were like slices of soft bread, and when plunged into the wonder that was the goulash (beef and gravy), became a sponge for all that wonder. Like the soul of a young child plunged into Harry Potter, book 1, such was the effect. For dessert, our beautiful and shy waitress put a plate of apple streudel in front of me. It had real cream on it and a flaky crust that requires the penning of a new adjective, something between crunchy and soft. I guess 'scrunchy' is taken. But whatever. It was really good. Since then I've been eating at home, with the exception of the odd bauguette from nearby bakeries.

Well, there's much more to say, but I really must get to my lesson plan. I've got a 40 minute 'Speaking' lesson with Intermediate students tomorrow. Maybe I'll have them describe their best meal. Or what would be the best substance to make a city out of. Rock and roll?